"Like the poet,
the consomme is born, not made. It must be clear from the
beginning, an achievement which needs care and trouble like every
other artistic effort, but one nevertheless well within the reach
of any student who means to succeed. To clear a soup by the
ordinary medium of white of egg or minced beef is to destroy all
flavour and individuality. If the stock be kept from boiling until
it has been strained, it will develop into a perfectly clear soup
under the hands of a careful and intelligent cook. The fleeting
delicate aroma which, as every gourmet will admit, gives such
grateful aid to the palate, is the breath of garden herbs and of
herbs alone, and here I have a charge to bring against contemporary
cookery. I mean the neglect of natural in favour of manufactured
flavourings. With regard to herbs, this could not always have been
the rule, for I never go into an old English garden without finding
there a border with all the good old-fashioned pot herbs growing
lustily.
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