Suddenly we entered the belt of
kelp, which extended for perhaps a quarter of a mile seaward,
and, lo! a transformation indeed. Those loose, waving fronds of
flexible weed, though swayed hither and thither by every ripple,
were able to arrest the devastating rush of the gigantic swell,
so that the task of landing, which had looked so terrible, was
one of the easiest. Once in among the kelp, although we could
hardly use the oars, the water was quite smooth and tranquil.
The islanders collected on the beach, and guided us to the best
spot for landing, the huge boulders, heaped in many places, being
ugly impediments to a boat.
We were as warmly welcomed as if we had been old friends, and
hospitable attentions were showered upon us from every side. The
people were noticeably well-behaved, and, although there was
something Crusoe-like in their way of living, their manners and
conversation were distinctly good. A rude plenty was evident,
there being no lack of good food--fish, fowl, and vegetables. The
grassy plateau on which the village stands is a sort of shelf
jutting out from the mountain-side, the mountain being really the
whole island. Steep roads were hewn out of the solid rock,
leading, as we were told, to the cultivated terraces above.
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